Palio-mania and a Padova Postscript

Yesterday marked this year's first Palio in Siena. This madcap bareback horse race around the central piazza occurs twice each summer (dating back to the 11th century, or so they say) and inspires immoderate excitement among locals and tourists alike. We happened to be in Siena on Monday, and of course Palio-mania was in full swing.

There are 17 contrade (districts) in the city; ten are chosen to compete in each Palio. The contrade have cute, Beatrix-Potter-style animal mascots (civetta, owlet; tartuca, tortoise; chiocciola, snail; etc.), and their flags cover the city.

Collect all 17!

Other documented Palio-mania included loud singing, friendly brawls, and seemingly impromptu medieval-style parades.

Bootees: the hot fashion trend of the 1370s!

Naturally, there are inter-contrada rivalries and alliances, and all kinds of strategery. (A few days before the Palio, the Civetta horse had been injured, prompting suspicion of foul play by a rival contrada.)

Though we weren't dedicated enough to brave the crowds for the race, we tuned in on TV. (Yes, of course it is broadcast on national TV.) Due to some kind of medieval technicality or something, the race doesn't begin until a designated horse lines up with the others, and the jockey showed no interest in lining up his horse. For over an hour, the horse in question trotted around in slow circles as the other horses, jockeys, spectators, and TV announcers became increasingly antsy. The wayward jockey finally got his act together just before nightfall, and the 90-second race was run. Tartuca (tortoise) won. Slow and steady, etc.

We visited Padova recently, too. No nutty horse races there, but... will an equestrian statue do? How about one by Donatello?

Gattamelata ("Honey-cat") of Narni swears that he is a valiant knight. He doesn't know how he got this pansy name.

Padova was part of the Venetian Republic back in the day, and it has a certain Venetian quality-- as in, bodies of water in places you don't really expect...

...including in what is supposedly the largest piazza in Europe, the Prato della Valle:

Home of aqua-Palio 2010?

Happy 4th of July! Eat some s'mores for me...